Bakarkhani: a culinary Taj Mahal
The sweet fragrance of the Bakarkhani roti in the streets of Kolkata and Dhaka is laced with the scent of betrayal, tragedy, but above all, love. It is more than just a Mughal-era delicacy and has its origins in a tempestuous tale of forbidden romance.
In the 18th century, Murshid Quli Khan rose to become the first Nawab of Bengal. By his side was his gifted protégé, Aga Bakar Khan, trained in warfare, governance, and languages. Together, they shaped the politics of Bengal.
Bakar & Khani: a love marred by tragedy
While serving as a military commander in Chittagong, Aga Bakar fell in love with Khani Begum, a courtesan of remarkable beauty but he wasn’t the only one. Jainul Khan, the local police chief, was also enamoured by her.
In a fit of jealousy, Jainul set a trap. He kidnapped Khani Begum and lured Aga Bakar into rescuing her. As soon as the two were reunited, Aga was ambushed. Jainul fled, but Aga was falsely accused of his murder. Despite no evidence, the Nawab’s court sentenced Aga Bakar to death by locking him in a cage with a hungry tiger. In a twist straight out of a legend, Aga Bakar killed the tiger and walked out a free man.
Aga’s tribute to his beloved
In Aga’s absence, Jainul had murdered Khani Begum. Heartbroken, Aga Bakar left for Barisal (in present-day Bangladesh), where he created a sweet bread in the memory of his beloved Khani and named it Bakarkhani, a confluence of both their names.
Over the years, Bakarkhani became a popular recipe and spread from Dhaka to Kolkata, Kashmir, Hyderabad and other South Asian countries as well. Every region added its own flavour, from nuts and semolina to ghee and flakiness. A dish of mourning became a culinary legacy.
Today, Bakarkhani is a rare find and sold mostly during Ramadan in a few Indian and Bangladeshi cities. Its story may have faded with time, but Aga Bakar Khan’s effort to memorialize his love for Khani Begum comes to fruition every time a Bakarkhani roti is savoured with love.
Image Credits:
https://thebetterindia.com/177518/kashmir-bakarkhani-bread-legend-food-history-india/.
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