Long before fashion runways and social media trends, a humble dot sparked a timeless tradition. Bandhani, one of India’s most iconic textile arts, isn’t just a visual delight — it’s a thread connecting us to an ancient past. Archaeological finds trace Bandhani-like resist-dyeing techniques back to the Indus Valley Civilization, over 5,000 years ago. That single, deliberate pinch of fabric, tied and dyed with care, was the beginning of a rich and enduring legacy.
The journey of Bandhani
The journey of Bandhani began in the Sindh region, which now lies in modern-day Pakistan, and slowly made its way to Rajasthan and Gujarat. As it travelled, it evolved — not just in technique, but in meaning. The Rajputs and Khatri communities of western India embraced Bandhani with open arms and hearts. The patterns weren’t just for show; they were symbols of life’s milestones — weddings, births, festivals, and even funerals. A Bandhani saree could speak volumes without uttering a word, stitched deeply into the socio-cultural fabric of the land.
At the heart of Bandhani lies the art of the tie. Known as “Bandhej”, the technique involves tightly tying thousands of tiny knots by hand. Yes, thousands — and no, they’re not done with a machine. These knots are strategically placed by highly skilled artisans, many of whom never use a stencil. Their muscle memory and intuition guide them as they create intricate motifs like leheriya (waves), ekdali (single dots), and boond (droplets). It's a slow, deliberate dance between hand and thread — where even a single mistake can alter the final pattern.
Once the knots are in place, the fabric is dipped into vibrant natural dyes — traditionally indigo, turmeric, or madder. What follows is the most magical moment of all: untying the knots to reveal hidden designs beneath. It’s a quiet kind of reveal, where the once-blank canvas bursts into life, echoing floral patterns, cosmic geometry, or rhythmic waves. Every colour has a purpose: red symbolises marriage, yellow marks new beginnings, and black — though rarely used — represents resistance and protection.
But Bandhani isn’t the work of one artist; it’s the labour of many hands. In places like Kutch, Bhuj, Jamnagar, and Sikar, it’s common to find entire families involved in the process. While the Khatri men often oversee the dyeing, it’s the women who tie each knot with unparalleled precision. These are not just craftspeople; they are custodians of a generational legacy, often learning the skill as children and honing it over decades.
The garment as we know it today...
Today, Bandhani has leapt off traditional garments and entered contemporary closets. It’s spotted on international runways, woven into designer collections, and shared across the digital world. But at its core, Bandhani remains a deeply human story — of heritage, patience, and artistry that refuses to be rushed.
