U.S. President Donald Trump recently imposed a 30 per cent tariff on South Africa. For the producers of cowboy boots in Texas, this means increased production costs for the cowboy boots they make with this leather. For fashionistas, it means paying a lot more for a fleeting trend.
So, what does this twist of fate entail? America’s own cultural symbol – the cowboy boot – bearing the brunt of the American President’s aggressive tariff policy?
Are cowboy boots that big a deal?
While the origins of cowboy boots are unclear, it has been symbolic of American culture since the dawn of the fabled Westerns (films). But it should be known that the cowboy boot as we know it, was heavily inspired by what the vaqueros in Mexico wore. Since the 1800s, it’s been a staple in the American south and Midwest.
But long after the days of ‘Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid’, the cowboy boot has remained a staple of American fashion. From Woody in ‘Toy Story’ to Miley Cyrus in ‘Hannah Montana: The Movie’, cowboy boots have always been iconic.
The recent cowboy boot revival
Today, with Beyoncé giving them a glamourous makeover on her ‘Cowboy Carter’ tour, they’ve seen a fashion resurgence. Equestrian-cum-fashionista Bella Hadid has only cemented the cowboy boot trend further.
Now, this boot isn’t restricted to the occasional Coachella appearance or reference to the deep South. That is, till Donald Trump’s tariffs don’t snuff out the recently-revitalised trend.
How Trump’s tariffs will impact producers of cowboy boots
So, manufacturers of cowboy boots will now have to pay more money for this type of leather. This is because there aren’t as many ostriches within the U.S.A. to fulfil this demand internally. The increased raw material costs will make it expensive for manufacturers to procure any exotic animal hide from South Africa.
Ryan Vaughan, the CEO of Rios De Mercedes, a Texan boot manufacturing company talked to AFP about the issues bootmakers would face because of this: "There are some things that we’re just not set up to manufacture. Love making cowboy boots. We can grow our production. We can work a second shift. We can't raise ostriches here in the United States at the level, to the quality, we don't have the meat demand here."
According to AFP, the boot brand Justin also says its boots are "made in USA with global parts" and bootmaker Lucchese said to AFP that they had to "look beyond our borders for additional partners and raw materials as needed." So, Vaughan isn't alone in this situation.
Why do cowboy boots need to be made of ostrich leather?
The first question one would have to ask in such a scenario is: why can't a different material be used? After all, cowboy boots were originally made of cowhide, and now there are vegan, faux leathers available.
However, it’s not that straightforward. Ryan Vaughan told AFP, "Ostrich is an extremely important leather in our industry. It's very resilient, it forms to the foot. It's recognizable,” adding, “Lot of great stretch in it, and the great thing is, you hardly have to care for it."
This means ostrich leather isn’t easily replaceable for this kind of use. It’s known for its durability, is breathable, and can withstand the level of wear and tear faux leather may not be able to. To add to that, ostrich leather boots are a luxury item, unlike classic cowhide boots.
Given that ostrich leather boots are seen as an expensive investment meant to last decades, finding an easy-to-source leather as a replacement is a tall order. So, from a consumer’s perspective, where does the trend stand?
The fashion consequences of Trump’s tariffs on the cowboy boot trend
Should the producers of boots like these choose to stick to ostrich leather, that tariff they pay for exporting ostrich leather from South Africa, will eventually be passed down to consumers through increased prices.
What does that mean for the fashion girlies who love a cowboy boot moment at Coachella, or embrace the equestrian aesthetic on the daily ala Bella Hadid? For those like Taylor Swift, Beyonce, or Miley Cyrus, the extra zeroes on a price tag wouldn't matter.
But for those whom their style trickles down to, the added cost could be significant enough to nip the trend in the bud. Who could have imagined that one day, Donald Trump would be dictating fashion trends thus?
