In January 2025, the world was left in shock when North Korea’s Kim Jong Un officially outlawed Budae Jjigae. The dish also known as ‘Korean Army Stew’, was once considered a dish of survival and innovation; it is now deemed a threat to national purity. Vendors caught selling the stew face severe punishments, including deportation to labour camps.
But what is the history of this dish, and why is it so popular? Let us explore!
The history of Budae Jjigae
Budae Jjigae’s story begins in the Korean War in the 1950s. With the nation ravaged and food supplies scarce, many turned to rations discarded by U.S. military bases. Spam, hot dogs, baked beans, and canned meats were salvaged, simmered with gochujang, kimchi, and noodles.
From this mix of desperation and necessity, the stew emerged. Nicknamed “Korean Army Stew,” it became a symbol of survival in the face of hunger and eventually became a dish loved by all.
The importance of Spam and the black market
One of the core ingredients of Budae Jjigae—Spam—sparked its own underground economy in post-war Korea. The black market thrived near American military bases, as people scrambled for these canned goods. Soon, muggling Spam was declared a capital crime under President Park Chung-Hee’s rule.
The irony is striking: what began as contraband later became a staple. Spam went from symbol of desperation to culinary nostalgia. And since it was an integral part of Budae Jjigae, it became indispensable.
Today, Spam has become a staple of South Korean life, and the country is now the biggest consumer of it outside the US.
Budae Jjigae has become global
While North Korea bans it, South Korea and the rest of the world continue to celebrate Budae Jjigae. The dish has fans across Asia, the U.S., and Europe.
In India, Korean cuisine is booming, and not just in metro cities. Kolkata’s Momo I Am offers an authentic take, while Delhi’s Seoul Restaurant attracts adventurous diners eager to try this South Korean staple.
What began as wartime survival food has now become a global comfort dish, connecting past struggles to present pleasures.
What did the North Korean government do?
As per a report that originally appeared in The Sun, local vendors have been threatened to stop selling the dish immediately. One of the vendors was even quoted as saying, “Sales of Budae-Jjigae in the market have stopped. The police and market management have said anyone caught selling it will be shut down.”
Selling or serving the dish can lead to deportation to harsh labour camps, where detainees endure brutal conditions under the guise of “re-education,” turning food into a political crime.
