Kalamkari, a traditional textile art form from India, dates back over 3,000 years and continues to captivate with its intricate detailing and mythological themes. Although its name comes from the Persian term kalam meaning "pen," the roots of Kalamkari run deep in the cultural fabric of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana long before the Mughals lent it the name.
A visual narrative rooted in mythology
Originally developed as a medium of storytelling, Kalamkari was used to illustrate episodes from Indian epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Artists would narrate scenes using visuals painted on large cloth scrolls, creating a dramatic, moving tableau that captivated village audiences. This art was not merely decorative—it was spiritual, cultural, and deeply symbolic.
Two schools, two distinct techniques
Kalamkari is broadly categorised into two regional styles: the Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti traditions. The Machilipatnam style from coastal Andhra Pradesh involves block printing using carved wooden stamps and predominantly floral and Persian-inspired motifs. In contrast, the Srikalahasti style, near Tirupati in southern Andhra, is entirely hand-drawn. Artisans use bamboo or date palm pens to draw detailed figures, often religious, directly onto the fabric.
Each piece can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks to complete and involves up to 23 painstaking steps from treating the cotton with cow dung and milk, to repeated dyeing, washing, and sun drying. The entire process is a labour of love and dedication.
An ode to natural dyes
One of Kalamkari’s most remarkable features is its continued use of natural dyes, a rarity in today’s chemically-driven textile world. Artisans extract indigo from leaves for blue, use myrobalan and iron rust for black, pomegranate peels for yellow, and even cow milk as a bleaching agent. This commitment to eco-friendly practices gives Kalamkari its rich, earthy palette and enduring charm.
Global recognition and revival
During the 17th century, Kalamkari became a prized export item for Dutch and British traders, finding its way into European wardrobes and interiors. It was so influential that it even shaped Western textile designs during the colonial period.
In the 20th century, the craft saw a revival largely thanks to Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay, the first chairperson of the All India Handicrafts Board, who championed Indian handlooms and arts post-independence.
In 2007, Kalamkari was awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, officially recognising its cultural and regional uniqueness. The GI tag is currently held by the state of Andhra Pradesh.
Kalamkari is more than fabric—it’s history, culture, and craftsmanship rolled into one. With global appeal and ancient roots, this timeless art continues to weave stories that connect generations, one brushstroke at a time.
