When Prada unveiled its Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan, it sparked an unexpected controversy. On the runway, each model walked the ramp wearing what unmistakably looked like Kolhapuri chappals - it had the same structure, tan leather and the iconic toe ring.
Yet nowhere in Prada’s release was there a mention of Kolhapur, Maharashtra, or the centuries-old Indian craftsmanship that inspired the look.
Almost immediately, a swift backlash followed, with Prada being accused of cultural appropriation and of profiting from a design deeply rooted in Indian heritage without any acknowledgment or attribution whatsoever
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And Prada’s version of the Kolhapuri chappal is priced at a staggering ₹1.2 lakh. While in India its sold for as little as ₹300 to ₹1500. While this debate continues, here's a look at the legacy of the Kolhapuri chappal industry. Produced in the Kolhapur district of Maharashtra for over 200 years, the sandals are known for their durability, vegetable-dyed leather, and intricate craftsmanship.
Historically, the industry was encouraged by local rulers since the 12th century and famously promoted in the 18th century by King Shahu Maharaj. Today this industry sustains an ecosystem of over 15,000 artisans and 200 manufacturers - a community that has passed down this skill for generations.
Around six lakh pairs are produced annually and 30% are exported. The annual business around the industry is valued at about nine crore. But the industry is facing turbulent times. Wholesalers like Abhijit Satpute told ANI about the rising raw material costs, a shrinking pool of skilled labour, and inconsistent export support. One of the biggest hurdles? A 28% GST on handmade leather goods, a policy that's further squeezing already-thin margins.
Even though Prada’s rebranding of Kolhapuri chappals as a ₹1.2 lakh luxury product has spotlighted their global appeal, it offers no benefit to the artisans who have crafted the footwear for centuries. Meanwhile, the industry itself is in a precarious position and its survival depends on innovation, better market access, and support for traditional crafts.
