Hilsa known as ‘Ilish’ in Bengali, holds an almost mythical status in Bengal's culinary and cultural identity. A member of the herring family, Hilsa is not just any fish; it’s an emotion. Revered for its rich, oily texture and unique flavour, this fish has been celebrated in poetry, festivals, and generations of Bengali kitchens.
While it's the national fish of Bangladesh, it also holds the honour of being the official state fish of West Bengal. Here are more details about the fish.
Bangladesh’s Ilish supremacy
Though West Bengal consumes enormous quantities of Ilish every year, Bangladesh dominates Hilsa production on a global scale. An astounding 600,000 tonnes of Hilsa are caught annually, making up nearly 12% of Bangladesh’s total fishery output. This isn’t just a food item, it’s an economic powerhouse.
The Padma River, in particular, is considered the sacred cradle of the finest Ilish, a fact hotly debated among Bengalis on both sides of the border. While Indian markets eagerly await exports from Bangladesh every monsoon, it’s clear who rules the Hilsa economy.
Hilsa prices on the rise
Despite its popularity, Hilsa isn’t endangered yet. But rising demand led to a steep decline in stock during the late 1990s and early 2000s. In response, the Bangladesh government introduced strict regulations in 2002, banning the catching of brood fish (adult females) and juvenile Hilsa, locally known as jatka.
These seasonal bans during the breeding season, usually from March to April and again in October, are crucial in ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy this cherished fish. India has followed suit with similar conservation efforts, especially along the Hooghly River belt.
Sacred in ‘Pujos’ as well
Beyond the plate, Ilish plays a starring role in Bengali rituals. In many Hindu Bengali households, a pair of Hilsa fish is offered during Saraswati and Lakshmi Pujas, symbolising prosperity and good fortune. It’s also a prized gift at weddings, especially when the bride’s family presents it as part of the bridal trousseau or tatwa. For many, it’s not just food, it’s heritage wrapped in scales and symbolism. These traditions have helped the fish retain its elite status even amidst market fluctuations.
From sacred rituals to sumptuous feasts, Ilish is more than just a fish it’s a cultural icon for Bengalis. With Bangladesh leading its production and conservation efforts in place, the Hilsa continues to be cherished across borders, symbolising tradition, pride, and the enduring power of food to unite communities.
