Beyond the Cartier necklace, the Maharaja of Patiala's jaw-dropping jewels

Diljit Dosanjh and his MET Gala appearance has become the talk of the town. Dressed in a Prabal Gurung outift, Dosanjh bought glam and desi vibes to the MET Gala red carpet. Dosanjh’s Met Gala appearance oozed Punjabiyat from head to toe: a jewel-studded turban with a feather, a lion-headed kirpan in hand, an outfit embroidered with Gurmukhi alphabets and the map of Punjab, and a neckpiece inspired by the iconic ‘Patiala Necklace’ — created by France-based jewellery house Cartier nearly a century ago. Diljit also wore a Cartier watch to complete the look.

The history of the ‘Patiala Necklace’

The iconic necklace was commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala and was created by Cartier in 1928. Encrusted with 2,900 diamonds and weighing nearly 1,000 carats, it was, and still is, one of the most expensive necklaces ever created. The story of the necklace is as much about the Maharaja’s luxurious lifestyle as it is about the craftsmanship of Cartier. It was said that when the Maharaja visited Paris, he arrived with 40 servants in tow and booked 35 suites at the Ritz. The buzz in Paris’ jewellery district was palpable, with everyone eager to see which jeweller he would choose to create a piece worthy of his royal stature.

Maharaja Bhupinder Singh didn’t disappoint. He chose Cartier to create his masterpiece, a necklace that would make history. The necklace was so magnificent that it became synonymous with the Maharaja’s name.

However, after 1948, it is believed that the entire set, including the iconic necklace and choker, was either stolen or mysteriously vanished from the Patiala treasury.

Decades later, in the 1980s, Cartier managed to recover remnants of the necklace, though many gemstones and diamonds were missing. The brand made efforts to restore it, using replicas to replace the lost diamonds.

The original piece’s grandeur was unparalleled, with Cartier taking three years to complete it. If intact today, it would be valued between $30 and $50 million.

In 2022, the legendary necklace made a reappearance of sorts. American influencer Emma Chamberlain, who was Cartier’s brand ambassador at the time, wore a part of the Patiala necklace to the Met Gala. Cartier heralded this as a “resurrection” of a lost jewel, breathing new life into one of the most iconic pieces of jewellery ever created. The act was framed as a tribute to the Maharaja’s legacy, and it sent ripples through the fashion world, rekindling interest in his collection.

Maharaja’s exquisite jewellery collection

But the Patiala necklace was just one of many extraordinary pieces commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. His royal taste extended far beyond diamonds, and his jewellery collection included an array of masterpieces in various materials. One of the Maharaja’s most famous pieces was a stunning ruby necklace he had created for his queen, Maharani Yagoda Devi. The necklace, made of rubies, pearls, and diamonds, was one of his finest creations. However, like many of his jewels, it was lost to history.

Years later, part of this necklace was rediscovered at a European auction house. The piece, which had been turned into a bracelet, was traced back to the Maharaja’s original order. Cartier, the very jeweller who had crafted it, took it upon themselves to recreate the lost necklace, bringing back a piece of history. The recreated necklace stood as a testament to the Maharaja’s extravagant taste and Cartier’s unparalleled craftsmanship.

In the 1920s, when the Maharaja traveled to Paris, he didn’t just bring along his famous Patiala necklace; he also carried a collection of his personal gemstones. He asked the renowned jeweller Boucheron to craft jewellery using these precious stones, resulting in a set of 149 pieces that included emeralds, diamonds, and pearls. These pieces, designed to capture the essence of Indian royal culture, became symbols of the Maharaja’s grandeur.

Fast forward to 2022, nearly a century later, and Boucheron paid homage to the Maharaja’s legacy with the New Maharajahs collection. This collection, inspired by the opulence and extravagance of the Maharaja’s jewellery, beautifully blends the magnificence of ancient royalty with modern design.

Though much of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh’s original jewellery collection has been lost or forgotten, his legacy lives on. The Patiala necklace, the ruby necklace for his queen, and the stunning creations crafted from his personal gemstones are just a few examples of the Maharaja’s unparalleled taste and enduring legacy.